Welcome to our blog! Browse
through our blog for photos of our gear in use, client feedback, tips and
advice as well as updates on all our latest products and innovation…
Barlights are low-profile lights that flash 360º, which helps
eliminate any blind spots. The smaller units can now put out a very bright
light, while also reducing wind noise and the likelihood of damage than that of
a bigger unit. Barlights come in a range of lengths from 248mm to 1.2 metres,
with permanent or magnetic mounting options available. Barlights are now one of
the most common style of flashing lights, as they are very versatile and are
often used on Utes, trucks, excavators and cars.
Flashing Beacons are a more traditional shape, with a higher profile and
a smaller footprint. These give a 360º coverage and are more visible when
mounted on higher vehicles, when it needs to shine above other objects on the
vehicle like truck decks, or Ute canopy’s. The smaller base also makes them
more common for the likes of tractors, where they are typically mounted to the
side of the cab. Permanent, magnetic, or pole mounting options are available.
Beacons are most commonly used on excavators, tractors or oversize farm
Direction Flashing Lights
Direction Flashing Lights are a smaller compact option which have a low profile,
so are less likely to get knocked off or to protrude dangerously. They have
tough polycarbonate lenses and are designed to flash in one direction with high
intensity flashes. These lights can be synchronised to flash together or
alternately. There are Amber, Red, Magenta, and White LED light options
available. Direction flashing lights can be used on any vehicle but most
commonly used in the grills or on the body of Utes and trucks.
Different Mounting Types
options are ideal for fitting and wiring up with a switch inside the cab, so
you can fit and forget.
options are designed to be quickly fitted for temporary use. They come with a
long cable and plug, to insert into the vehicle’s cigarette lighter socket.
Pole mount beaconsare fitted onto a permanently mounted pole which has been wired up with a switch. They can be very quickly fitted or removed. They are ideal for applications where the beacon is not needed all the time - like for agriculture machinery which only requires a beacon when travelling on the road between paddocks.
Are you unsure or worried
about the condition that your current extraction and towing equipment is in?
The majority of us start worrying about what state these items are in when it’s
too late and we’re already stuck. Extracting equipment is anything but routine,
so owners and operators need to understand the potential repercussions of using
unsafe equipment. Part of keeping your extraction equipment in a safe and
usable condition is how you store and care for them while you’re not in need of
them. Recovery strops are classed as the best equipment for extracting, as they
stretch and allow the pulling vehicle to get enough momentum to pull out the
stuck equipment. Please read our blog about what extraction equipment works
best if you want to know the pros and cons of the equipment available…
When not to use Recovery
Never use equipment unless
you know it can handle the job. Always make sure your recovery strop has a tag
or that you know its strength rating. Don’t use equipment if you can’t
determine its rating. The equipment may need to be rated 1.5 times the weight
of the stuck equipment, depending on the resistance factors. It is dangerous to
use a strop that has a missing or unreadable tag. Without knowing the rated
strength of the strop, it’s anyone’s guess what it can safely pull. If the
numbers on the strop label are fading or wearing, write or relabel the numbers
on the strap so its rating is never in doubt.
Knots significantly reduce
the strength of any strop or tow rope. Strops are designed to be used flat as
knots reduce the strength of the web when it is bunched together and twisted
into a tight knot. All of the tension is placed on less area.
How to Store Equipment
If strops get oil or fuel on
them, wash them off. Make sure they are dry when you store them. Never coil up
a wet strop, because mould and mildew can destroy the material. If you find
serious defects, don’t stick the equipment back in the truck or shed. If it’s
not up to scratch, make sure to discard or repair it so others will not be
tempted to use it. Don’t leave damaged equipment laying around to be used again
— the next time it may be used, could be someone’s last. The best practice is
to keep your recovery strops in a container to protect it against damage from
contamination and sunlight.
How to Clean Equipment
If you need to clean towing
equipment, never use a high-pressure air hose or power washer. They will only
drive the grit deeper into the material where it can abrade the inside of the
webbing. Use a brush to knock off mud and dirt, but always brush with the
length of the strop, not across its width. Rinse off strops with a gentle
stream of water, and then let it air dry thoroughly before storing it.
Develop an Inspection
You should create an
inspection checklist for all recovery equipment and keep it where the equipment
is stored. Remind employees they should only store equipment after they inspect
it to make sure it is in good shape. Repair any damage right away or discard
the equipment. When in doubt, throw it out!
Time to Toss
Throw away strops and ropes
during inspections if you find:
• Burned or melted nylon
• Any cuts, tears, or holes
• Torn or broken stitching
• Significant abrasion
Recovery Strops are an
Collect and dispose of the
chains, cables, and straps you currently use for towing or extracting equipment
— chances are, you don’t know the state of most of that equipment. Start from
square one by purchasing what you need. Invest in recovery strops with clevises
rated to take the strain. If you have the correct recovery strops, operators
can ‘snatch’ stuck equipment and they won’t snap like chains, cables, or other
strops tend to do, making it much safer for your staff and equipment.
Click here to browse our Extraction Equipment
Most of us have got stuck at one time or another…You might
say, do I really need a recovery strop? What’s wrong with using a bit of kiwi
ingenuity and making do with the chains or ropes that are in the truck already?
While it’s tempting to simply hook, jerk, and pull with whatever is handy, you
are relying on your past luck, and the hope that the chain links, knotted
strap, or clevis with a replacement bolt won’t snap, tear, or pull apart this
The problem is that it can be
very dangerous when wrong equipment is used, because the user doesn’t know for
sure how much pressure the connecting equipment can handle. A broken piece of
metal can easily become a missile – and a split second or a few inches
determine whether that missile results in a near miss or serious injury. Unsafe
shortcuts such as using a cut towing strap, an undersized clevis or chain, or a
weak attachment point can lead to expensive repairs, injuries that last a
lifetime, or worse - a person’s death. If the extraction breaks equipment, the
flying debris can be just as lethal as a bullet from a gun.
For some of us, our first
thought may even be, “Quick, what do I have to do to get this out of here as
fast as possible, so the boss doesn’t find out?” It’s this mind-set that
motivates people to grab the first thing they find without really thinking about
what they are about to do, or prepared for what may soon follow…
What are Recovery Strops?
Recovery strops are designed
and fabricated much differently than their counterparts used for towing and are
lighter than chains and cables. Unlike tow ropes and straps, recovery strops
don’t have any hardware attached to them and the material allows for stretching
under tension. Recovery strops are made of nylon, which can be stretched,
making them in the same manner as rubber bands or bungee cords. Recovery strops
can stretch (up to a point) but return to their original shapes. When a towing
vehicle pulls forward, the recovery strop continues to stretch until it builds
up enough tension that it actually helps pull out a stuck vehicle.
Why use Recovery Strops?
Unlike cables and chains, you
can get a running start and jerk on recovery stops. The design of the strop
absorbs all the jerking motion. If you ‘snatch’ with a recovery strop, you will
actually pull the vehicle out very smoothly, whereas, if you jerked on a chain
or cable, you would most likely snap something, or risk a chance of whiplash
from the sudden jolt. Another advantage to using a recovery strop is that the
towing vehicle should never have to spin its wheels. If the towing vehicle is
stopped in its tracks after repeated attempts with a tow strap, you know the
vehicle you are using to pull with is not large enough to get the job done.
What to look for when purchasing your Recovery Strops…
When you purchase a recovery strop, you may want
to buy one that is as long as possible. For instance, a 6 metre strop may give
you enough flexibility to place the towing vehicle on more stable ground. If
you don’t need 6 metres, then double it up, run the strop around, and attach
both eyelets to what you are pulling. The cost of recovery equipment should not
be the issue; employee safety is what is most important. If something were to
go wrong, think of the expense you’d face with fines, increased insurance
rates, damaged equipment, or the loss of a valued employee. In such cases,
cheap equipment can cost you dearly if something goes wrong.
Once you have purchased your recovery strops ensure you are looking after them probably. Check out our blog on how to keep your recovery strop in good condition.
Oversize Required Signage
• Are preferred over flags as the panels are more visible during both day and night.
• Only the New Zealand-style hazard panels are allowed. Red and white hazard panels must not be used.
• Only use hazard panels when required to – do not leave them displayed on the vehicle when the vehicle is not oversize.
• Comply with AS/NZ 1906.1: 2007 Retro reflective materials and devices for road traffic control purposes, Part 1: Retro reflective materials
• Consist of retro-reflective material coloured yellow-green with either a 200mm- or 300mm-wide diagonal orange stripe
• Have the illustrated dimensions and orientation, shown below
• Be frangible (breakable or readily deformable) if any part of the hazard warning panel extends beyond the body of the vehicle or the load, whichever it is attached to.
Note: Instead of displaying a hazard warning panel, an agricultural tractor with a width not exceeding 3.1m may instead be fitted with and use an amber beacon when operated on a road.
Hazard Panel Location
The following example shows the correct hazard panel location and orientation. Panels show the excess dimensions to other road users and are visible from the front and rear or to the side for front and rear overhang.
If the vehicle is more than 3.1 metres wide, Oversize signs must be displayed at the front and rear.
• Must be fluorescent yellow, 400mm long × 300mm high
• Must only be used if the vehicle is over dimension – take
the flag off if the vehicle or load is no longer over dimension
• Should be fitted in a way that indicates the over dimension
extremes of the vehicle
• High visibility paint may be used to draw attention to excess front overhang, for example, the sides of the bucket of a front end
loader. The use of paint in this way recognises that attaching flags or hazard
panels to certain types of projecting equipment is not always practical.
Fluorescent yellow flags must be attached to indicate
Excess width of the vehicle or load at its front
Front of the load (if it has excess front
Rear of the load (if it has excess rear
Rear of the load (if it has excess length).
• You may use retro-reflective hazard panels coloured
yellow-green with an orange diagonal stripe instead of flags.
• If you’re travelling during the hours of darkness, the
flags must be replaced with retro-reflective yellow-green hazard panels with an
orange diagonal stripe.
• Must be black lettering on yellow-green background (see
• May be in two parts: OVER and SIZE
• Must be visible to both the front and the rear
• Only use oversize signs when required to. Do not leave
them displayed on the vehicle when the vehicle does not require them.
While we endeavour to keep current, it is your
responsibility to comply with current regulations. Find out more information by
looking at NZTA's factsheet Here .
It’s a well-known fact that greasing bushes
and bearings saves a huge amount of wear and tear. It’s such an important job
to minimise breakdowns and costly repairs – yet one that can easily be
overlooked! Following are a few tips which could potentially save you lots of
money and time…
Lubrication: Ever thought you were saving money buying a cheap grease
gun? Beware! Make sure the Grease gun you use has the Unique TWIN-LOCK Piston System which eliminates
the possibility of dummy lubrication - by going solid if the grease nipple is
blocked. Now you know if you are still actually pumping grease. Using the twin
locking system you know your bearings are being effectively greased whenever
you pump the handle.
2. Refill Grease
with Ease: Refilling
your gun with grease can be frustrating and messy. It always seems to run out
part way through the job! Check if your gun has a course thread to stop cross
threading. Do you have the correct size grease cartridges? (The most common in
NZ is the 450 gm and 400 gm size.) Are you using the correct type of grease? If
you ‘bulk fill’ – do you have corresponding connections between the pump and
3. Handle Type: Do you prefer a ‘lever’ type gun or a trigger type? Typically, a
trigger type is ideal to hold in one hand, with the other hand positioning the
coupler on a flexible extension (see accessories below). A lever gun needs to
be held with both hands and can normally pump a higher pressure (psi).
4. Weight: Grease guns can
be used for a considerable amount of time, and in many awkward positions, so
you want them to be light and easy to hold.
5. Accessories: Do you want a rigid extension, or a flexible one to bend around
and get into difficult positions. How long do you want the extension to be? Where does it need to reach to, from where you are positioned? Couplings are
available in 3 or 4 jaw options – do you prefer one which holds onto the grease
nipple tighter, or a looser option that is easier to pull off?
6. Manual, Rechargeable or Air Operated: Normally this
comes down to several factors – cost and availability of compressed air, or the
ability to recharge a battery. Air operated and rechargeable grease guns are
easier to use as you just have to pull the trigger, but cost more and require
compressed air on site, or a battery needing to be charged up periodically.
Like most rechargeable tools - batteries are getting better all the time and
are becoming more popular.
7. Reliability: Last, but certainly not least! Does your grease gun wear out
quickly or get ‘air bubbles’ all the time? We can recommend some reliable
options, and remember time is money when on the work site. You may pay a little
more initially, but the savings are huge in the long run!
know some of the most important things to look out for in a grease gun you are
probably on the hunt for something that will last you years… We have a range of
greasing gear to help you out. Take a look!
New Zealand is a nation of many trailers! We love to hook
them up for work, weekend jobs and holidays away. In fact there are over
700,000 trailers in NZ!!! However like anything on the road - there are many rules
and regulations around trailers and their use. We have developed a
comprehensive range of light trailer gear to make it easier for you to keep
your trailer up to scratch, and have even put together the following
checklists to help you when building, repairing and towing your
Building or Repairing a
Check you have all the parts you
need! If you don't we may be able to help. Browse our website http://www.transquip.co.nz/Products/Trailer/ , call us on 0508 31 31 31 or email email@example.com
Coupling (standard, hydraulic, electric, mechanical)
Safety Chain & Shackle (on trailer)
Safety Chain Attachment (on towing vehicle)
Hub / Stub set (standard or braked option)
Brakes (hose kit, bundy tube, cable kit, electrical
Mudguards (single, tandem)
Springs (single, tandem)
Rims / Tyres
Tailgate Hardware (Latches, hinges, springbolts)
Lamps (Tail lights, number plate lights, clearance lights)
WOF / Rego Holder
Run through this quick checklist to help you stay safe and
Lights; operation and condition
Towball / coupling sizes compatible
Brakes condition and operation
Suspension and structure condition
Intended travel route OK for towing vehicles
Towing vehicle has sufficient towing capacity
Trailer being towed not over weight
Projecting loads marked
Tyres in good condition
Tyre pressure OK
Also Remember: The maximum open
road speed of vehicles towing a simple trailer is limited to 90kph. Drivers
also need to obey any lower speed limits set for particular roads. (Subject to
current NZ Regulations)
is also a good idea to check road conditions before you depart. Two websites
that can help are https://www.aa.co.nz/travel/roadwatch/ or http://www.journeys.nzta.govt.nz/traffic
We hope your trailer is up to scratch in no time and if you are taking it travelling on holiday then have an excellent holiday!
If you could save money, improve productivity, and increase
employee morale, would you?
New Zealand businesses spend $3 billion per year on costs associated with
occupational injuries and illnesses. These are expenditures that come straight
out of company profits. But workplaces that establish health and safety
procedures can reduce their injury and illness costs by 40%. Therefore
businesses operate more efficiently when they implement effective health and
safety procedures. Injuries and illnesses increase workers' compensation and
retraining costs, absenteeism, and faulty product. They also decrease
productivity, morale, and profits of the company. Safe worksites provide the
consistency and reliability needed to help a team work together and grow a
business. Worksites with active safety programs have fewer injuries, and are
often rated “better places to work,” with more satisfied, and productive
employees. These employees also tend to return to work more quickly after an
injury or illness and produce higher-quality products and services.
Your employees deserve to be safe, your customers expect it
and your business practices demand it - so let us help you out and get you up
to scratch with the real gear you need, real fast. TransQuip is committed to
seeing NZ businesses get fitted out with the safety equipment they need to keep
their workers safe, comfortable and compliant. You can browse our wide range of
safety gear on our website by clicking here …
Check out our Workshop Safety Gear and Basic Entrance Checklist to make a start on kitting out your worksite and see if
your workplace is safety compliant…
TransQuip provides an ever expanding range of health and
safety equipment that helps add value to your business, workplace, and
employees’ quality of life. If you want to find out if you’ve done all you
can to promote good health and safety practices amongst your workers, feel free
to call us on 0508 31 31 31 or email firstname.lastname@example.org for some expert help and we’ll see to it you’re
fitted out with all you need in no time!
TransQuip can help take the guesswork out of workplace
safety by providing the equipment and expertise that meets your worksite’s
unique safety needs.
LED Worklights come in most shapes and sizes, from the
lowest budget to the highest quality. Starting with the entry level unit to
light up the few meters on the back of your truck when loading up, to the very
bright & high quality units that can handle the dust & vibration of an
excavator working in the mines.
A couple of points you need to know when purchasing a
Isn’t it frustrating when you need just half an hour more to
complete a job, and the sun goes down – leaving you in darkness & with an
A couple of points you need to know when purchasing a
Now you have a quick overview of what to look for in a
worklight you are probably wondering what worklights are on the market? Yes, we
have a full range. Check them out here.
If you still have any questions then please contact us – we would love to help
Believe it or not –
most flashing lights we sell now will well outlive the vehicle they are fitted
to! And… they have not been touched since the day they were installed!
Advancement in technology now gives us a very reliable
option. Features and benefits included are:
Believe it or not – most flashing lights we sell now will
well outlive the vehicle they are fitted to! And… they have not been touched
since the day they were installed!
Once upon a time they were a reasonably high maintenance
item with little electric motors that had an irritating whirr, bulbs which blew
the filament, lenses that broke with any little knock – not to mention the fact
they flattened the vehicle's battery if left flashing without the engine
running all the time!
Advancement in technology now gives us some very reliable
options. Features and benefits included are:
LED’s (Light emitting diodes) are the biggest
change. These are now easily bright enough to replace any bulb – plus they have
no filament to blow and draw a tiny amount of current in comparison. They
also produce very little heat compared to an incandescent bulb, minimising the
risk of melt-downs, or burning your fingers! LED’s can shine in different
colours – with our most common being amber (orange) along with red, white,
magenta (purple), green and blue.
Polycarbonate is the most common material used
for the lenses now. This has very high impact resistance and can be
transparent, or with a hint of colour included. Polycarbonate is becoming more
popular in many areas including; on aircraft and aerospace, eye protection, for
building materials, and as electronic components. Where a branch or stone would
have smashed a traditional lens, the polycarbonate will mostly take the hit in
its stride without even a crack.
Nearly all LED flashing lights are now
Multi-voltage, so they can be fitted to either a 12-volt vehicle or 24-volt
vehicle without a second thought. If you are fitting one to a forklift or a
machine with higher than 24 volts – please check the voltage range on the
flashing light does conform.
The electronics are a lot smarter with many
flashing lights having a wide range of different flashing patterns, which can
also be synchronised to give extra effect. For example, you can have 2 or more
flashing lights flashing at exactly the same time or have them flashing in an
Another important feature to be aware of is that
you should fit only flashing lights that are radio interference free. Some of
the LED lights on the market will interfere with radio channels which can be
not only frustrating – but downright dangerous if it involves the likes of the
If you are hunting around for the perfect flashing light to suit your needs read our blog on 'What kind of Flashing Lights are Best to Suit your Application? We stock all the flashing lights you need and would love to help you, browse our website here here or give us a ring on 0508 31 31 31.